SPQR Pizzeria

SPQR is a wood-fired pizza joint from David Mackintosh, one of the guys behind MoVida, Pei Modern, Rosa’s Canteen and Lee Ho Fook.

Designed by Nick Harding from HA Architects, the Liverpool Street restaurant revolves around the wood-fired oven, which was custom-made by an Italian family in Thomastown. It has a solid concrete base; an igloo-shaped dome built from bricks; is covered with insulation and a layer of cement; and cooks pizzas at 400 degrees.

The pizzas – sold by the slice at the front of the venue and by the wheel at the back – have a sourdough base that’s fermented overnight, then blasted in the wood-fired furnace until the crust crisps and blisters. All the classics are available as well as a couple of originals from the SPQR pizzaiolos, such as the Anchovy with San Marzano, anchovy, olives, chilli and oregano. And the Salsiccia with house-made pork-fennel sausage, potato and fior di latte.

There are a couple of sides that make use of the oven – such as pulse and grain salads, and baked chunks of pumpkin. Then there are simple desserts such as house-made tiramisu and panna cotta with seasonal fruit.

No pizza would be complete without bira e vino, so there’s reds and whites from the King Valley and beers by Stone & Wood and Mountain Goat on tap, plus a thoughtful selection of Italian longnecks.