Masses Bagels

It’s hard to miss the Masses Bagels line at Carlton Farmers Market. There's always a steady stream of customers eager to get their hands on a wild-fermented bagel or bialy before they sell out (and they always sell out). But soon they'll be a little easier to snap up. The duo behind Masses, partners Jack Muir-Rigby and Carmen Newton, are opening a permanent space in Collingwood.

The bagels themselves are what set Masses apart from other spots in Melbourne. “We don’t stick to one style – our bagels have a glass-like crunch on the outside and a soft, open crumb inside. We’ve treated creating this bagel like creating the perfect loaf of bread,” Muir-Rigby tells Broadsheet.

The dough goes through a wild fermentation process over three days, resulting in a complex depth of flavour. “We’ve been slightly restricted by the shared kitchen we’ve been using for the market,” says Newton. “Now we have more room to experiment with longer fermentation times and new methods.”

Their core menu will carry over from the market stall, including fan favourites like the seasonal tomato bagel, which varies depending on the time of year – switching between green tomato, fresh tomato, or thinly sliced persimmon. With its new space, Masses plans to add meat-based options to the menu. Expect salt beef bagels and some hot menu items at the new spot.

The fitout, designed by Phil Moloughney from Arb Arch Architecture, will include a large-scale custom rolling table, made out of recycled stainless steel by Henry Hawks of Wingnut Studios. The venue will be minimalist and functional, with enough seating inside and out to accommodate customers who want to dine in. “We’re more focused on dining in because I really have an issue with takeaway packaging,” says Newton. “But we’re not going to stop people from taking their bagels to go.”

The duo say the Carlton Farmers Market has been an incredible testing ground for the project, and they’re eager to continue the stall even after the shop opens. “The support we’ve received has been incredible,” says Muir-Rigby. “We want to keep that connection with the community.”

You can also expect more collaborations. “We’ve been hosted by so many chefs for pop-up events over the last year and a half – we want to continue that in our own space by inviting other chefs to collaborate with us. It’s a big part of our DNA.”

Masses Bagels will open at 5 Smith Street, Collingwood.