Lucy Liu Kitchen & Bar

Neon-lit Lucy Liu is the work of chef Michael Lambie (The Smith, Taxi, Circa), Scott Borg and Zac Cribbes. It is a distinctly upbeat departure from the British expat’s past gastro pubs and fine dining restaurants.

Time spent sampling street foods in Bangkok, Taipei and Shanghai got Lambie fired up to create a menu that offers the best of pan-Asian cuisine. The border-hopping menu at Lucy Liu offers Asian favourites such as Peking duck dumplings, Korean fried ribs and BBQ lap cheong (Chinese sausage) hot dogs.

The standout dishes are the yellow fin tuna tataki with wasabi ginger dressing and sesame crackers; the steamed, sticky beef buns with cucumber, hot chilli and black vinegar; and an exemplary wagyu-beef dish with horseradish cream and yakiniku dipping sauce.

The interior is a mix of communal and booth seating. There is a private dining room and larger tables with lazy Susans for group dining.

The fit-out by March Studio references the bamboo scaffolding common to building sites in Hong Kong and China with a series of soaring Tasmanian oak battens which frame the space. Terrazzo brick, polished-concrete floors and Laminex-topped tables add a sense of warmth and informality.

Entry to the space is now via cobbled Oliver Lane at the rear. And while walk-ins are welcome, Lucy Liu also takes reservations. Which only adds to Miss Lucy’s already considerable charms.