Koi Dessert Bar Chippendale

A few dessert bars and cake shops have opened in Sydney, but none have burst onto the scene with the same confidence and pomp as the Poernomo brothers’ (Arnold, Reynold and Ronald) Koi Dessert Bar.

The space is split over two floors, with two distinct identities. Downstairs is casual. Upstairs more fine dining, but still relaxed.

The upstairs bar, with sparse tables and a glossy black bar is a showroom in feel and function. Order the brothers’ creations in the form of a six-course degustation split between three savoury courses from Indonesian Masterchef judge Arnold Poernomo and three desserts by Reynold, an Australian Masterchef contestant. The selection will change seasonally, but one thing likely to stay is a rehash of Reynold’s perfect-score dessert with coconut pannacotta, black-sesame sponge, yuzu curd and crumbled meringue.

The Indonesian-inspired savoury dishes are small and delicate, more like dessert primers than mains. A dish with a card-sized piece of mackerel over a salsa-sambal blend sits alongside a petite, riceless curry with a fillet of poached chicken and a granola garnish. Ronald will curate a list of matching cocktails.

Downstairs is an open-air courtyard serving coffee and neater, more basic iterations of Reynold’s desserts. His famous Nomtella has been condensed with espresso mousse, salted caramel and a base of brownie all packed into a dome.