Before Stefanie Breschi and Alex Boffa opened their new-wave Japanese restaurant Future Future in 2018, the plan was to open a low-key bento shop. But then they found the century-old former art gallery in Richmond, which called for something a little more expansive.
Six years on, an evolution of their original vision is coming to fruition in Suupaa (“supermarket” in Japanese), a Japanese-inspired convenience store and casual diner in Cremorne (in the same development as the new Baker Bleu). They’re opening it with co-owner and Future Future head chef Atsushi Kawakami, who cut his teeth in Tokyo restaurants.
“The inspiration is from time spent in Japan and for me that started 15 years ago and just became a yearly pilgrimage,” Breschi tells Broadsheet. “The konbini is the cornerstone of urban life there. It serves so many purposes for the neighbourhood.”
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SIGN UPFor Breschi it feels like a particularly pertinent time, given the cost of living, to open Suupaa – a place dedicated to accessible, everyday dining.
“The principles of a konbini are about affordability, quality and speed and these are important features. Particularly in the context of Cremorne because you’ve got this huge workforce and no legacy of hospitality in this area, so it’s typically underserved. So we feel like we’re aligning the right concept with the right location.”
The trio brought on former Parcs head chef Dennis Yong (who led the low-waste CBD restaurant to huge acclaim, not least for his famous umami e pepe, before departing in 2023) to help design the menu, which will lean on classic konbini snacks like bento, onigiri, sandos and nikuman (steamed buns filled with chashu pork or shiitake mushroom).
Yong, who also runs sustainably focused fermentation business Furmien, continues his dedication to fermentation in dishes like pork loin tonkatsu, which will be served with fermented mustard and a spin on tonkatsu Bulldog sauce, made with red miso and Vegemite. “It’s like an umami bomb, very addictive and very delicious,” says Breschi.
You can also expect a fried egg sandwich with curry ketchup, black garlic relish and American cheese between pillowy shokupan. Plus Melbourne-Italian references in the mortadella onigiri (a riff on the classic spam onigiri), and chicken and ‘nduja nuggets. “The onigiri are a highlight for me … my favourite is probably the yaki, which is fried and filled with a delicious curry and leek concoction, so it’s fully vegan,” says Breschi.
The drinks list, which is co-created with Good Measure’s Max Allison, will include a banana-infused cold brew, and matcha milo. “Max is a stickler, he’s a true mixologist, evident in the virality of the Mont Blanc,” says Breschi.
“I know there’s a very strong contingent of matcha lovers, so we’ve been sensitive to the quality of matcha we’re using and the approach to the foam.”
There’ll also be beer on tap; a red, white, orange and pink wine; and cocktails the team aims to keep around the $15 to $16 mark. Plus, a retail section stocking Japanese brands and house-made takeaway products like bottled cold brew and cups of ramen.
Suupaa will open in January at 65 Dover Street, Cremorne.