Arlechin

Arlechin – by one of Melbourne’s most acclaimed restaurateur families, headed by Guy Grossi – isn’t easy to find. Apart from a small logo tucked into a corner of the perforated glass entranceway, there’s little indication you’re in the right spot.

You enter through the once-gritty Mornane Place, which has been spruced up with party lights and a large carnal street art installation by artist Mike Maka (aka Makatron). The family (Grossi Florentino, Ombra Salumi) also built a compost-glass crushing garage to take care of the dumpsters that once lined the alleyway.

Inside, the 40-seat space has a slightly subterranean ambience, with a low, concave Portages cork roof that’s lit like an old European wine cellar. Overhead spotlights cast ominous, abstract shadows off industrial-chic weight-and-pulley downlight shades.

Grossi oversees the food menu. Stick to the concise list for oysters with mignonette, steak tartare with French fries, its longstanding bolognaise jaffles, or the aglio olio-style midnight spaghetti. Desserts include tiramisu and crema fritta (deep-fried custard) with cinnamon gelato.

The bar is a long white-marble countertop, with dimly coloured, liquor-hued bottles illuminated behind the bar like chalices. The wine bottles are stored inside glass-encased walls. The bar menu includes the Puttanesca Martinez (gin, vermouth, caper brine and black olive reduction), which imitates the classic pasta dish and adds a kick of Hellfire bitters. And there’s Grossi’s take on a Negroni with barrel-aged Campari. Plus, non-alc cocktails and rare whiskies from Sullivans Cove.