Alfie’s

Inside a brutalist ’50s building near Martin Place, Alfie’s is the antidote to the lavish steakhouses that have become widespread around the country. It’s the third restaurant from Liquid and Larder Group, which is behind two of the CBD’s best sizzlers The Gidley and Bistecca. Here, the group is channeling speedy European steakhouses such as London’s Flat Iron, which only serves one cut at a price that won’t completely burn your wallet.

To that end, Alfie’s is all about pure Riverine sirloin, butchered on-site to 220-grams and fired over ironbark and charcoal on a custom grill, just like at Bistecca. And it’s guaranteed to hit your table in 15 minutes.

A steak is nothing without sides, which here tap into executive chef Pip Pratt’s childhood in the UK. Available in two sizes, they might include a cheesy gratin riffing on Welsh rarebit, and a salad-y spin on bubble and squeak. Forget about Heinz with your fries – Pratt has taken a punt on chip-shop curry sauce instead. Top gelateria Ciccione & Sons has collaborated on dessert – a stick of burnt honey gelato, beef fat and rosemary.

If none of the above makes Alfie’s feel like a different beast, wait till you see the place. From the street it looks like a little club you actually want to be in. The vibe is coming from the front bar, where the house Martini is served at minus-10 degrees and touted as the coldest in town.

Further inside is the dining room, designed by Tom Mark Henry to channel the laid-back energy of east London. Loud and colourful artworks by Melbourne artist Steven John Clark are a total departure from the Euro steakhouse look, ditto the projections and DJ booth. A transparent, blood-red ageing room puts those steaks on display like a gallery.